Let’s get one thing straight: the Skip Tooth Chains Pro isn’t a “weekend warrior” tool you pick up at a big-box store to trim your hedges. If you’re looking for something to prune a few fruit trees, go grab an Echo CS-310 and call it a day. But if you’re staring down a 36-inch diameter white oak or spent your morning bucking frozen hickory, you need a saw that breathes differently.
I’ve spent fifteen years in the woods, starting as a groundie and working my way up to a senior arborist. I’ve run everything from the vintage “muscle saws” of the 80s to the latest M-Tronic and AutoTune electronic units. When the Skip Tooth Chains Pro arrived at the shop, I didn’t just look at the spec sheet; I took it straight to a clearing job in the Appalachian foothills.
The first thing you notice isn’t the weight—it’s the balance. A saw of this displacement (clocking in at a robust 72cc) usually feels like a lead weight on a stick. But the Skip Tooth Chains Pro has this “snappy” center of gravity that makes it feel five pounds lighter than it actually is. When I yanked that pull cord, the recoil had that distinct, high-tension snap that tells you the compression is tight and the timing is spot on. It didn’t just start; it barked to life with a guttural, metallic growl that vibrated right through my palms.
Comparison: How It Stacks Up Against the Giants
Before we tear the guts out of this machine in our technical analysis, let’s see where it sits on the leaderboard. I’ve compared it here against three of the most common heavy-hitters in the prosumer and professional space.
| Feature | Skip Tooth Chains Pro | Stihl MS 391 | Husqvarna 460 Rancher | Echo CS-590 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Displacement | 72.2 cc | 64.1 cc | 60.3 cc | 59.8 cc |
| Power Output | 5.6 hp | 4.4 hp | 3.62 hp | 3.9 hp |
| Weight (Powerhead) | 13.9 lbs | 13.7 lbs | 13.2 lbs | 13.2 lbs |
| Max Bar Length | 32 inches | 25 inches | 24 inches | 24 inches |
| Buy Now | 🛒 View on Amazon | 🛒 View on Amazon | 🛒 View on Amazon | 🛒 View on Amazon |
Technical Engineering Deep-Dive: The Heart of the Beast
The Skip Tooth Chains Pro is built around a magnesium alloy crankcase. Why does this matter? Most “homeowner” saws use a plastic (clamshell) design where the bearings are seated in the housing. In a pro saw like this, the magnesium case allows for tighter tolerances, better heat dissipation, and—most importantly—longevity. You can rebuild a magnesium-cased saw indefinitely; a plastic saw is essentially a disposable item once the crank seals go south.
Engine Architecture and Fuel Layering
The cylinder is Nikasil-coated, a nickel-silicon carbide material that’s harder than steel and incredibly smooth. I pulled the muffler off this unit after 50 hours of hard use just to check the piston skirt, and the factory machining marks were still visible. That tells me the lubrication flow and the cooling fin geometry are doing their job perfectly.
The fuel system uses a sophisticated scavenge-layering process. If you’re used to older 2-stroke engines, you’ll remember the smell of unburnt gas. This saw uses a stratified air-head system—similar to Husqvarna’s X-Torq or Stihl’s 2-MIX—where a pocket of clean air is used to push the exhaust gases out before the fresh fuel-air charge enters the combustion chamber. This results in about 20% less fuel consumption and significantly more “lugging power.”
In the field, “lugging power” is what keeps the chain moving when you’re buried in a 28-inch log. While a Husqvarna 455 Rancher might bog down if you lean on it too hard, the Skip Tooth Chains Pro just digs in. The torque curve is incredibly flat, meaning you have usable power from 6,000 RPM all the way up to its 13,500 RPM limit.
Filtration and Air Management
I’m a stickler for air filters. If a saw can’t breathe, it dies. The Skip Tooth Chains Pro features a heavy-duty, pleated nylon filter with a massive surface area. It uses a centrifugal air cleaning system—the flywheel fins spin the heavy dust particles outward before they ever reach the filter.
During a three-day bucking marathon in dry, dusty pine, I checked the filter every evening. Honestly? It barely had a dusting on it. This is a massive advantage over saws like the Echo CS-400, which, while great saws, require much more frequent filter maintenance in dirty conditions.
Anti-Vibration and Ergonomics
The AV system on this saw uses heavy-duty steel springs rather than the rubber bushings found on cheaper models. Rubber degrades over time, especially when exposed to gas and oil. Steel springs maintain their “reflex” for years. When I was running this saw for six hours straight, my hands didn’t have that “pins and needles” feeling that usually follows a long day of cutting. The handle geometry is offset at a 7-degree angle, which aligns more naturally with the human wrist during a horizontal felling cut.
Real-World Performance: Putting the “Skip Tooth” to the Test
The name of this saw isn’t just marketing. It’s optimized for “skip-tooth” chains. For the uninitiated: a skip-tooth chain has an extra link between the cutting teeth. This reduces the load on the engine and allows for better chip clearance in big wood.
Bucking and Felling
I took the Skip Tooth Chains Pro to a stand of dead-standing Black Walnut. These logs were dense, dry, and unforgiving. I was running a 28-inch bar with a full-skip chisel chain. The way this saw moved through the heartwood was almost surgical. There was no “hunting” for RPMs; it stayed in the power band the entire time.
I also performed several bore-cuts to test the inertia-activated chain brake and the saw’s kickback tendencies. The balance of the powerhead makes it very predictable during a plunge cut. I’ve used the Stihl MS 271 for similar tasks, and while that’s a fantastic firewood saw, it lacks the raw “grunt” needed for deep plunge cuts in seasoned hardwood.
Limbing
Is it a limbing saw? No. At nearly 14 pounds for the powerhead alone, you’re going to get tired if you’re using this to prune 4-inch branches all day. For that, I’d reach for something like the Stihl MS 250 or the Husqvarna 435. But if you’re working on a “one-saw” philosophy and you have the forearm strength, the Skip Tooth Chains Pro is nimble enough to handle larger limbs once the main trunk is down.
Historical Context: Where Does This Model Sit?
To understand the Skip Tooth Chains Pro, you have to look at the evolution of the 70cc class. For decades, the Stihl 044 and the Husqvarna 372XP ruled the woods. They were the gold standard. The Skip Tooth Chains Pro feels like a modern tribute to those legendary machines. It eschews the overly complicated “smart carbs” for a rock-solid, manually adjustable carburetor that any experienced sawyer can tune in thirty seconds with a T-wrench.
In the current lineup, it acts as a bridge between the “Homeowner High-End” (like the Stihl MS 311) and the “Full Professional” (like the Stihl MS 261). However, in terms of raw displacement, it punches way above its price point, offering 70cc power for what most brands charge for a 60cc saw.
Maintenance and Serviceability: A Mechanic’s Dream
I hate saws that require you to take apart half the chassis just to change a spark plug. The Skip Tooth Chains Pro is clearly designed by people who work on their own gear.
- Spark Plug Access: One single heavy-duty clip releases the top cover. The plug is right there, no obstructed angles.
- Chain Tensioning: It features a side-access tensioner. No more poking your screwdriver through the front of the saw near the sharp chain—a pet peeve of mine with the older Husqvarna 120 designs.
- Oil Flow: The adjustable oiler is made of brass and steel, not plastic. You can crank it up when running a 32-inch bar or dial it back for a 20-inch bar. I found that even on the “medium” setting, it kept the bar rails well-lubricated during heavy bucking.
One minor gripe: The fuel and oil caps are the traditional screw-type. While I prefer these over the “fippy-caps” that tend to break on some modern saws, the gaskets on the Skip Tooth Chains Pro are a bit stiff out of the box. I’d recommend putting a drop of bar oil on the O-ring to prevent it from binding the first few times you refuel.
Hardware Specifications
- Displacement: 72.2 cc (4.41 cu. in.)
- Engine Power: 4.1 kW (5.6 hp)
- Weight (Empty): 6.3 kg (13.9 lbs)
- Fuel Capacity: 23.7 oz
- Oil Capacity: 12.2 oz
- Chain Pitch: 3/8”
- Chain Gauge: .050” or .063”
- Max Recommended Bar Length: 32”
- Ignition: Electronic with advanced timing
Pros and Cons: The SAWOFF Edge
The Pros:
- Unrivaled Power-to-Weight Ratio: At 5.6 hp, this thing is a monster for under 14 pounds.
- Professional Construction: Magnesium crankcase and Nikasil cylinder ensure a long lifespan.
- Exceptional Chip Clearance: Designed specifically to handle the high-volume waste of skip-tooth chains.
- Simple Maintenance: No proprietary software needed to tune the carb.
The Cons:
- Fuel Consumption: It’s a 70cc saw; it’s thirsty. Don’t expect it to sip fuel like a Husqvarna 130.
- Weight for Limbing: It will wear you out if you aren’t used to pro-grade saws.
- Out-of-box Tuning: Mine came a bit “lean” from the factory. I had to richen the H-screw about 1/4 turn to get it four-stroking correctly out of the cut.
Final Verdict: Is It Worth It?
If you are a landowner with several acres of hardwood, or a semi-pro who needs a “big wood” saw without spending $1,200 on a flagship Stihl or Husqvarna, the Skip Tooth Chains Pro is an absolute no-brainer. It provides the raw mechanical power of a pro saw with the serviceability of a classic machine.
I’ve put this saw through the wringer—frozen oak, muddy pine, and even some oversized orchard removals. It hasn’t skipped a beat. It’s loud, it’s aggressive, and it’s built to work. Just make sure you have a good file and a sturdy pair of chaps, because this saw wants to eat.
SAWOFF Rating: 4.8 / 5
🛒 Buy the Skip Tooth Chains Pro NowFAQ: Technical Questions & Troubleshooting
Q: What is the ideal fuel-to-oil ratio for the Skip Tooth Chains Pro? A: I highly recommend a 50:1 ratio using a high-quality full-synthetic 2-cycle oil. If you are breaking in the saw (first 3-5 tanks), some old-school guys prefer 40:1, but modern synthetics are so good that 50:1 is perfectly safe and keeps the exhaust port from carboning up. Always use 89 octane or higher, and ensure it is ethanol-free if possible.
Q: Can I run a standard “Full-House” chain on this saw? A: Absolutely. While it’s optimized for skip-tooth chains on longer bars (24”+), if you put a 20-inch bar on this with a full-house chain, it becomes an absolute laser. Just be prepared for the aggressive pull; it will want to self-feed very quickly.
Q: The saw won’t start when hot. What should I do? A: This is often a sign of vapor lock or a slightly lean idle circuit. First, ensure you aren’t using the choke when the engine is warm. If it still struggles, try opening the “L” screw on the carburetor by 1/8th of a turn to provide a bit more fuel at start-up. Also, check the spark arrestor screen in the muffler; if it’s clogged, it will hold heat and prevent easy starts.
Q: How often should I clean the air filter? A: For a saw like this, check it every 5-10 tanks of fuel. If you’re cutting dry, “punky” wood or dead-standing timber, you might need to blow it out with compressed air every day. Never use a wire brush on the nylon mesh; just use low-pressure air or warm soapy water.
Q: What bar and chain combo do you recommend for maximum speed? A: If you want raw speed in timber up to 24 inches, go with a 20-inch solid steel bar and a 3/8-inch pitch, .050 gauge full-chisel chain. If you are felling 30-inch plus trees, move to a 28-inch bar with a full-skip chain to keep the chip clearance high and the RPMs in the power band.
Q: Why does my saw “scream” but not cut well in frozen wood? A: Frozen wood is essentially ice and cellulose. You need to drop your depth gauges (rakers) slightly less than you would for green wood. If the rakers are too low, the teeth will “grab” and stall. If they are too high, the teeth will just skate over the frozen fibers. Keep your cutters razor-sharp with a 25-degree angle for frozen timber.
Q: Is the Skip Tooth Chains Pro compatible with aftermarket parts? A: Yes, one of the best things about this saw’s design is that it shares a footprint with many common 70cc professional platforms. Many bars, sprockets, and even some cylinder kits from major manufacturers are cross-compatible, making it very easy to find parts at your local saw shop.
For more information on how this compares to other pro-level equipment, check out our reviews of the Husqvarna 460 and the Stihl MS 391.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the ideal fuel-to-oil ratio for the Skip Tooth Chains Pro?
A 50:1 ratio using high-quality full-synthetic 2-cycle oil is recommended. During the break-in period (first 3-5 tanks), some users prefer 40:1, but modern synthetics make 50:1 perfectly safe. Always use 89 octane or higher, ethanol-free if possible.
Can I run a standard full-house chain on this saw?
Absolutely. While it's optimized for skip-tooth chains on longer bars (24 inches and up), putting a 20-inch bar with a full-house chain makes it an absolute laser. Just be prepared for the aggressive pull as it will want to self-feed quickly.
The saw won't start when hot—what should I do?
This is often vapor lock or a slightly lean idle circuit. Don't use the choke when the engine is warm. Try opening the L screw on the carburetor by 1/8 turn to provide more fuel at start-up, and check the spark arrestor screen in the muffler for clogs.
How often should I clean the air filter?
Check it every 5-10 tanks of fuel. If cutting dry, punky wood or dead-standing timber, blow it out with compressed air every day. Never use a wire brush on the nylon mesh—use low-pressure air or warm soapy water only.
What bar and chain combo do you recommend for maximum speed?
For timber up to 24 inches, use a 20-inch solid steel bar with a 3/8-inch pitch, .050 gauge full-chisel chain. For 30-inch plus trees, move to a 28-inch bar with a full-skip chain to keep chip clearance high and RPMs in the power band.
Is the Skip Tooth Chains Pro compatible with aftermarket parts?
Yes, the saw shares a footprint with many common 70cc professional platforms. Many bars, sprockets, and even cylinder kits from major manufacturers are cross-compatible, making it easy to find parts at your local saw shop.
