STIHL Chainsaw Prices 2026: Every Model, New & Used

Review Information

• Reviewed by: Jack Beurge
• Review type: Research-based review
• Testing status: Not personally tested by SAWOFF — based on manufacturer documentation, reputable sources, and documented owner-reported patterns
• Published: September 28, 2026

Information in this review is labeled as one of four types: 🧪 SAWOFF hands-on test, 🏭 manufacturer specification, 📚 research from reputable sources (including documented owner-reported patterns), or 🧠 editorial assessment. See our testing methodology and editorial policy.

How much does a STIHL chainsaw cost in 2026? Typically $189 to $1,900, depending entirely on where you land in the lineup — the entry MS 170 sits near $189 street, the farm-and-ranch MS 271 near $570, and the pro ladder runs from about $720 (MS 261) to roughly $1,900-ish for the MS 881. Those are street figures, dealer-set, not a single fixed MSRP.

That spread confuses people, so this guide breaks it three ways: new-price table for every gas model, a used-price guide by class with the condition checks that matter, and the hidden budget items — bar, chain, PPE — that turn a $570 saw into a $750 receipt. A lot of searches lump all of this together as “chain saw stihl price,” and that is exactly what this page answers. If you’d rather compare saws than money first, start with our best chainsaws of 2026, the brand hub in our best STIHL chainsaws guide, or the full STIHL models and prices chart.

Bottom line: STIHL pricing is dealer-set, which means sticker shopping between two dealers 20 miles apart is the single cheapest trick in this whole guide.

New STIHL chainsaw prices: the 2026 tier table

One important framing sentence before the numbers: STIHL is dealer-only — an official STIHL MSRP is published for some models, but the street price you actually pay varies by dealer, region, and the bar you choose, so treat every figure below as a typical street range rather than a commandment.

Model	Tier	cc	Typical new street price
MS 170	Homeowner	30.1	~$189
MS 180	Homeowner	31.8	~$229
MS 211	Homeowner	35.2	~$360
MS 250	Homeowner	45.4	~$470
MS 271 Farm Boss	Farm & Ranch	50.2	~$570
MS 291 Farm Boss	Farm & Ranch	55.5	~$590
MS 261 C-M	Professional	50.2	~$720
MS 362 C-M	Professional	59.0	~$970
MS 462 C-M	Professional	~72.2	~$1,250
MS 500i	Professional (EFI)	79.2	~$1,500
MS 661 C-M	Professional	~91.6	~$1,580
MS 881 C-M	Big wood / mill	~121.6	~$1,900-ish

Two more things before the used market. The jump from $470 (MS 250) to $570 (MS 271) is the cheapest horsepower upgrade on the list, and the jump from $590 (MS 291) to $720 (MS 261) buys a magnesium crankcase and M-Tronic — a class change, not a trim upgrade. Past $1,250 you’re paying for big-wood capability most landowners will never use; fine, but say it out loud at the dealer. For a fuller value read, see our STIHL MS 261 review and STIHL MS 661 review; first-time orange buyers should walk our STIHL chainsaw buyers guide first.

Bottom line: the tier table beats any single “best price” — you save more picking the right class than you save haggling within it.

Used STIHL price guide: what each class actually trades for

The used market is where STIHL pricing gets interesting, because resale is unusually strong. Typical trades, by class, plus or minus a bit by region:

Saw class	Examples	2–4 yrs old, typical used price
Small homeowner	MS 170, MS 180	$90–$140
Mid homeowner	MS 211, MS 250	$160–$280
Farm & Ranch	MS 271, MS 291	$280–$420
Pro 50–60cc	MS 261, MS 362	$380–$650
Pro 70cc and up	MS 462, 500i, 661	$700–$1,150
Big wood	MS 881	$1,100–$1,500

Depreciation runs 30–35 percent in year one, then about 10 percent a year after, with pro saws flattening faster than homeowner ones. The rule of thumb I hand buyers as often as sellers:

Age of saw	Typical resale (homeowner tier)	Typical resale (pro tier)
Under 1 year	60–70% of new	70–80% of new
1–3 years	50–60% of new	60–70% of new
4–6 years	40–50% of new	50–60% of new
7+ years	30–40% of new	40–50% of new
Rebuilt or scored piston	15–30% of new	25–40% of new

The caveats below are where the real deal lives, and they apply to every used saw regardless of class:

• Compression test. Slowly pull the saw over by hand with the spark plug in. It should feel firm, resist your pull, and bounce back with a cushion rather than spinning loose. A gauge reading over roughly 110 psi passes a farm saw; pro saws should read more.
• Piston-pink check. Pull the muffler and look at the piston crown with a light. You want a uniform cool-brown with no aluminum transfer — “pink” scoring is the mark of a lean-running, partially seised saw.
• M-Tronic quirks on used second-hand saws. Models like an MS 261 C-M or MS 462 have no adjustable carb screws. If the seller has mucked with fuel or storage, the saw may need a dealer diagnostic before it runs right — a couple of hours, possibly a solenoid. A used C-M model is only a bargain if it currently starts clean.
• Fuel-line and filter age. STIHL fuel lines have a good reputation, but rubber does not last forever, and a $10 line that’s stiff and cracked is a fair negotiation point, not a dealbreaker. Before you hand anyone cash on a driveway, run the full inspection in our used chainsaw checklist.
• Bar and chain condition. The bar rails, the sprocket nose, and the chain are the most expensive part of the used math. A saw with a $90 bar worn thin is a $200 problem dressed up as a bargain.

One used-market fact worth stating bluntly: because resale runs strong, the “deal” on a clean farm saw after two years is often only 30–40 percent off new — the deal is on a 7-year-old pro saw that a careful owner has walked at the right time.

Bottom line: buy used pro saws from working crews, buy used homeowner saws from older owners, and buy a compression gauge before you buy either.

Battery kits: STIHL MSAs by the tool-plus-battery math

Battery pricing is where people underestimate landing costs the most: the bare-tool price is only half the bill. The MSA 220 C runs roughly $549 as a bare tool; the complete kit with an AP 300-class battery and charger typically pushes the total to $700 or more, depending on which battery tier your dealer stocks.

Two inputs to that budget. The AK system, which powers smaller saws, is fine for pruning and storm cleanup but its batteries don’t cross-compat with the heavier AP tools. The AP system is the better long-term platform if you might add a battery blower or hedge trimmer later, since those batteries are shared across the commercial line. Full specs and runtimes live in our STIHL MSA 220 review.

If a battery saw does weekly homeowner work — the kind of job a gas saw runs ten minutes a month for — the kit math comes out ahead within a couple of years, mostly in fuel and carb-maintenance savings. If you’re bucking five cords of oak, no battery in this price band is the right tool at all.

Bottom line: never compare a battery saw’s bare-tool price to a gas saw’s kit price — compare the complete kits.

The real out-the-door budget: the traps the sticker hides

The sticker is the floor, not the total. Two traps catch almost everyone; both are fixable with planning, not a bigger credit card.

Trap one: bar, chain, and oil economy. The stock 16-inch bar on a homeowner saw is fine, but the moment you want an 18 or 20-inch bar you’re spending another $40–$100, plus a fresh chain, plus bar-and-chain oil. On pro saws the optional Rollomatic Light bar shaves real weight off long setups and adds $50 or more to the invoice. Budget $75–$150 here if you plan to run anything beyond the standard setup.

Trap two: PPE, before the first pull. Chaps, a helmet with muffs and a face screen, gloves, and eye protection are not optional accessories, and $150–$300 is the realistic low end for the set. I have seen too many people spend $570 on an MS 271 and nothing on the gear that keeps their fingers attached. Budget the safety gear as part of the saw purchase.

Add these up and a “typical” farm-saw purchase looks like:

• MS 271 at ~$570 street
• PPE (chaps, helmet, gloves, glasses): $150–$250
• Fuel and 2-cycle oil for the season: $40–$60
• Bar oil and one spare chain: $60–$80
• Total first-year cost: roughly $820–$960

That’s still a fair price for a machine most owners will keep a decade. My rule: if the PPE number makes you wince more than the saw number, start with the safety gear and save for the saw separately. Our chainsaw price comparison page lays out how this budget stacks against competing brands.

Bottom line: the honest number for a farm-tier STIHL, with PPE and consumables, is the sticker plus $150–$300 — plan it that way and the invoice holds no surprises.

Getting the best price on a STIHL chainsaw

Because STIHL is strictly dealer-only, the usual internet tricks don’t work the way they do on big-box saws — no pitting Amazon against Lowe’s, no Black Friday doorbuster. What you can do is more effective anyway. Shop two or three geographically separated dealers and ask each for a complete out-the-door quote with tax, bar choice, and a six-pack of HP Ultra oil or a gallon of MotoMix on the same receipt. Ask about the residential warranty extension: buying oil or pre-mixed fuel with the saw typically doubles the two-year homeowner warranty to four. Ask about last-season stock on outgoing chassis, and don’t be ashamed to walk out — the dealer down the road may want the sale more than you want that particular MS 170.

We’ve laid out the exact questions, the oil-and-fuel double-warranty rule, and the cost-of-ownership comparison in our STIHL chainsaw buyers guide. If your budget is genuinely under $250 for the saw itself, be honest that an entry STIHL is a network investment and not a bargain play.

Bottom line: at a servicing-dealer brand, the “best price” is whatever the dealer with the slowest month will write down on a complete quote — walk in prepared and you will find it.

Which STIHL price tier should you buy?

My verdict by budget.

Under $250: the MS 170 at ~$189. It’s a legitimate saw for pruning, small firewood rounds, and storm cleanup — our STIHL MS 170 review covers why it remains the cheapest entry into this lineup. Don’t expect it to fell 16-inch oaks all afternoon.

$300–$600: the MS 271 Farm Boss at ~$570, or the MS 211 at ~$360 for mostly limb cleanup. The 271 is the classic landowner saw, a good compromise of torque, weight and tank time that stays relevant a decade.

$600–$1,000: the MS 261 at ~$720 delivers the best power-to-weight in the 50cc class, with rebuildability that protects resale. If you cut most weekends it is the smartest dollar-for-dollar saw in the lineup.

$1,000+: the MS 462, 500i, 661 and 881 are working-professional tools. If you’re a landowner buying in this band, you are buying margin, not necessity.

One last note: the sticker is never the whole budget. Sticker plus PPE, fuel, and a spare chain — that’s what a STIHL costs. Plan the true number and you’ll be a happier operator than the neighbor who only knows the sticker price.

FAQ: STIHL chainsaw prices, answered

How much does a STIHL chainsaw cost in 2026?

Between roughly $189 and $1,900, all dealer-set street figures since STIHL sells only through servicing dealers. The MS 170 sits near $189, the MS 271 Farm Boss near $570, and pro saws run from about $720 (MS 261) to $1,500–$1,900 for the MS 500i and MS 881.

Does the price of a STIHL chainsaw include the bar and chain?

Yes. Published pricing pairs each powerhead with a standard bar and chain, typically 16 inches on homeowner saws and 18 to 25 inches on farm and pro models. A longer bar or a Rollomatic Light bar adds roughly $40 to $120 to the invoice.

Can I buy a STIHL chainsaw at Home Depot or online?

No. STIHL sells only through authorized servicing dealers who assemble, fuel, test, and register every saw, which is also why a listed MSRP is only a reference — actual street prices vary by dealer and region.

Is a used STIHL chainsaw a good deal?

Frequently, yes. A two-to-four-year-old farm saw typically sells for 55–70 percent of new street price, a real discount on a rebuildable machine. Before paying, run a hand-over compression test, pull the muffler to check the piston crown, and expect a dealer diagnostic on any used M-Tronic model that doesn’t start clean.

How fast do STIHL chainsaws depreciate?

Roughly 30–35 percent of value in year one, then about 10 percent a year after. Homeowner saws depreciate faster in percentage terms, while pro saws like the MS 261 and MS 661 often sell for 60–70 percent of new even several years on.

How much should I budget beyond the sticker price?

Plan on $150 to $300 on top of the saw. A helmet, chaps, gloves and glasses typically run $150–$250, with a spare chain plus bar oil adding another $50–$80. Budget it before the purchase, not after — the PPE is how you avoid the genuinely expensive parts of chainsaw ownership.

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Frequently Asked Questions

How much does a STIHL chainsaw cost in 2026?

Most STIHL gas chainsaws run between about $189 and $1,900, depending on the model. The MS 170 homeowner saw typically sits near $189 street, farm-and-ranch saws like the MS 271 near $570, and professional saws run from about $720 for the MS 261 to roughly $1,500–$1,900 for the MS 500i and MS 881. All figures are dealer-set street prices, since STIHL sells through servicing dealers rather than big-box stores.

Does the price of a STIHL chainsaw include the bar and chain?

Yes. STIHL's published pricing pairs each powerhead with a standard guide bar and chain, usually 16 inches on homeowner saws and 18 to 25 inches on farm and pro models. Choosing a longer bar, a Rollomatic Light bar, or an upgraded chain adds roughly $40 to $120 to the out-the-door total.

Can I buy a STIHL chainsaw at Home Depot or online?

No. STIHL only sells through its network of authorized servicing dealers, who assemble, fuel, test and register every saw before handoff. That policy is why listed STIHL MSRP figures are only a reference: actual street prices vary by dealer, region and bar choice, and there is no Amazon-style price war to chase.

Is a used STIHL chainsaw a good deal?

Often, yes, if it passes a compression test. A one-to-three-year-old farm saw typically sells for 55–70 percent of its new street price, which is a genuine discount on a rebuildable machine. Before you pay, pull the saw over slowly by hand to check compression, pull the muffler to inspect for piston scoring, and expect quirks on any used M-Tronic model, since the electronic fuel system needs a dealer diagnostic rather than a screwdriver.

How fast do STIHL chainsaws depreciate?

Slower than most outdoor power equipment. As a rule of thumb a STIHL loses roughly 30–35 percent of its value in the first year, then about 10 percent a year after, steeper for homeowner saws and shallower for pro models like the MS 261 and MS 661. Clean, dealer-maintained saws with receipts can sit at the top of those bands and even beat them.

How much should I budget beyond the sticker price?

About $150 to $300 on top of the saw itself. A quality helmet, chaps, gloves and eye protection commonly run $150–$250 by themselves, and a full set of replacement chain and an extra bottle of bar oil adds another $50 or so. Budget this before you buy rather than after, because running a STIHL without proper PPE is how the real costs start.